Iron Ranger boot in Rough and Tough. Top speed hook left unhooked.
Photo by Kay Tomas F. Bertheussen & Benjamin Bøen.

First impressions

So here they are, finally. My Iron Ranger 8085 from the Red Wing Heritage line.

I’ve drooled over images and videos and yearned for them for several years at this point. A few months back, I decided the drooling had to end an actually started setting aside money for them. A couple of paychecks, one birthday, and one portrait shoot later; they were mine.

I’ve had them for about a month now. They are, in my opinion, a end game boot. A boot for years to come. Heritage in the literal sense of the word, meaning I can pass them down to my kids.

History

The Iron Ranger boots are named after the iron miners of the Mesabi Iron Range in northern Minnesota. These workers needed tough, reliable boots for their harsh working conditions— it was cold, dark, dusty, and dirty.

The Iron Ranger 8111 we see today has a long history and is inspired by several different vintage work boot styles dating all the way back to the 1920s. There have been modernizations (like adding the Vibram 430 Mini-lug outsole), but the overall silhouette remains mostly unchanged.

The Heritage 8111 we know today first debuted in Japan in 2008 and then began being sold in Europe and North America in 2011.

Combine the fact that they look vintage and are really durable with the craftsmanship and quality, and you’ve got yourself a stellar pair of boots for years to come.

Features

They are made from premium full-grain leather, known for its durability and longevity given proper care.

They are available in several different colors. Mine are in Rough and Tough, but they also come in Hawthorne, Black, Copper, Amber, and Slate. Rough and Tough is the best color in my opinion, but that is based on my color preference. Do you research and figure out what suits your palette best.

Goodyear welt construction involves stitching the boot’s upper to a leather welt, which is then stitched to the sole. This makes them durable and resoleable. The heel is fastened with nails.

They feature the iconic double-layered toe cap, which provided a safety barrier for workers before the introduction of steel toe caps. Today, this is more of a style feature than a safety feature. The back of the boot also has a double-layered leather detail.

The boots are triple-stitched as well, ensuring strength and longevity in the seams.

They’ve got speed hooks on the top, for fast lacing on the go. You can choose not to use all the speed hooks, and I often leave the top speed hook unused.

Pricing

They don’t come cheap, but are priced in the same range as other high-quality, handmade shoes:

$350, €380, or 4400 NOK.

Here in Norway, the price is also affected by our current weak currency, making them even more expensive compared to a couple of years ago. Still worth it in my opinion.

Styling

These boots might be the anchor point of your attire. They are big, so they fit well with wider jeans or chinos. I have also found them to work with slimmer jeans as well, but depending on your overall size, feet size and how tight your jeans are – they might look really big if your jeans are super-tight.

Attire styling depends on the color of the boot. Mine in Rough and Tough go very well with blue and black jeans, provided you match the boot color with a belt or some additional accessory. They can also work well with beige or green chinos. The style might also work well with cargo pants.

The Rough and Tough already come with some leather patina and will get more over time. Every time you wear them, you will give the leather more time to mature and build up its own story and uniqueness. This is exactly what I am looking for and the main reason I wanted these boots—I want them to evolve and tell build up their own story after years of usage.

Comfort

To call these boots comfortable when you first place them on your feet would be a lie. Like all leather boots however, they do get better with time and in the end will be super comfortable. This is something I appreciate, that with every step you take in the boots you mold them to your feet. Having worn other boots of this type before, the break in period was quicker than I expected and they got comfortable quick.

For me, it was the leather behind the lowest speed hook that was the problem. It sort of pushed and was making me uncomfortable the first few times wearing them. Never to the point of making a mark on my skin, but I could feel it.

The insole is also leather and will adapt over time to your specific feet and style of walking. There is a cork midsole within as well.

While talking about comfort, I also have to mention the weight. The last time I was traveling, the man in airport security even commented on their weight, calling them a “solid pair of boots” when placing them on the airport scanner. A comment that made me feel proud and masculine, naturally.

Sizing and fit

Preferably try the shoes in a store where you can test the different sizes with guidance from someone who knows the sizing. I bought mine online, something that is risky but the only option living where I live. To make sure I got the right size, I stood on a ruler and shared the exact length of my feet with the shoemaker at the store.

Even doing everything in my power to get the right size, I had to return my first pair. It’s not always about just the length, you have to consider the width and girth. Apparently I am smaller than average.

You’ve heard it before, but I still mention it; size down with Red Wing. If you order online, double-check the return options. Needless to say, make sure to treat them nicely if you are returning them so the next person also gets a pleasant unboxing and “new shoe” experience.

If you have small feet or feet that are thin over the dorsum, you can add a sole for a tighter fit. Something I’ve done with my other Red Wing Heritage pair, the Roughneck.

I was told that with the shoes unlaced, you should have room for a finger behind your heel. Personally, this sounds too roomy for me, but with this size, they are comfortable and I am able to wear insoles.

Red Wing Amsterdam has a nifty printable PDF that can help you with sizing, and a video to accompany it:

– printable PDF found here, and
– Red Wing Amsterdam Sizing Video seen here.

Break-in

Many people complain about the break-in period, but the point is that with every step you take in the boots, the better they get. So after hundreds of thousands of steps in them, you will have a pair of boots that are molded and shaped to your exact feet.

I see this as a battle between your feet and the thick leather in the shoe. To win the battle, you have to put in the effort.

It’s just like any other relationship; you have to do the work for it to succeed. It’s a labor of love in the end, and like most things in life, comfort doesn’t come cheap or fast—you have to put in the work.

Mine are comfortable now, after just a few weeks of wear a couple of days per week. I’m used to boots though, so if you are coming from sneakers, your mileage may vary.

The break-in period can even be sped up given proper boot care and attention. Applying conditioner, brushing them and using a cedar shoe tree while not in use are essential for maintaining the quality of your boots in the long term.

Care and maintenance

Like all other leather products, these can last a long time given the proper care.

Clean them regularly if used heavy, or every few months if used lightly, with a brush and damp clot. Apply leather conditioner as needed, depending on how you use them.

Note that many conditioners can change the color of the boots, like Red Wing’s own mink oil. I will only use clear or uncolored leather balm for my pair to combat any additional darkening of the leather.

A tip would be to test the conditioner on a small part of the boot before applying it to the more crucial areas, like the toe cap.

For storage and keeping the leather firm and I am always inserting a cedar tree shoe insert while they are not being used. They both dry the shoes from the inside and keeps the leather under pressure and looking mint.

Final thoughts

Overall, the Red Wing Iron Ranger boots are a robust and stylish choice for anyone looking for a durable, long-lasting boot. With Red Wing’s rich history, craftsmanship, and timeless design, they are well worth the investment in my opinion. I am looking forward to every wear.

Thanks for reading all the way to the end. Peace